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VoltCalcs

Car Battery Runtime Calculator

Enter your car battery rating and accessory load.

10–300 Ah

1–3000 W

1–80 %

50–100 %

Enter values and click Calculate

Source: Energy identity Wh = Ah x V, with a discharge-rate correction fitted to the discharge tables Trojan, Lifeline and Victron print, checked against the constant-power table EnerSys prints for a 12V automotive AGM

6 min read
A car battery is built to pour out a few hundred amps for a few seconds and then be recharged by the alternator. It is not built to carry a load while the engine sits off. The car battery runtime calculator below works out how long your accessories last before they reach the depth of discharge you set, corrects for how fast you are drawing, and says so on screen when your load falls outside the discharge tables manufacturers print.
Headlight and radio runtime from a typical 60Ah flooded car battery at 30% depth of discharge.

Why Car Batteries Are Not Built for Runtime

Car batteries (SLI — starting, lighting, ignition) pack many thin lead plates close together. That design maximises the surface area behind the burst of current that turns the starter, the job measured by the cold cranking amps a starter battery delivers, and it leaves the same plates fragile under a long, slow discharge.

Discover Battery prints the design limits as plain numbers. Regular flooded starting batteries "are designed for discharges of less than 3%" of capacity. Enhanced flooded start-stop batteries are designed for up to 17.5%. High-cycle anti-idle batteries, the ones built for running house loads with the engine off, are designed for up to 30%. A plain car battery is the first of those three, so running accessories from it is a one-off rather than a habit. Our depth of discharge guide explains why the same percentage costs SLI, AGM and LiFePO4 chemistries such different amounts of life.

How deep is too deep? EnerSys prints the line for its ODYSSEY batteries: at 12.0 volts, which its manual calls 35% state of charge, the battery "should be recharged immediately to avoid permanent battery damage". That is 65% depth of discharge. The calculator defaults to 30%, flags every setting past 3%, and marks anything past 65% as damage territory. If key-off power is part of how you use the vehicle, an AGM battery sized for cycling on its own isolator is the fix, not a deeper draw from the starter.

Car battery drain rates at 30% depth of discharge for headlights, radio, phone charger and dash cam.
Headlights take a parked car battery to 30% depth in about 1 hour 34 minutes, while a dash cam runs for more than two days.

Common Car Accessory Power Draws

AccessoryWorked atRuntime on 60Ah flooded (30% DoD)
Dome light10W24.8 hours
Radio (engine off)15-25W8.6-15.5 hours
Headlights (halogen)110-130W1.3-1.6 hours
Headlights (LED)30-50W3.9-7.0 hours
Phone charger10-18W12.6-24.8 hours
Dash cam (always-on)3-5W55-99 hours
Heated seats40-60W per seat3.1-5.0 hours
12V air compressor120-180W0.9-1.4 hours
Car camping (fan + lights + charger)50-80W2.3-3.9 hours

The wattages are the figures worked, not measurements of your car: read yours off the nameplate or measure it. The runtimes are this calculator's own output at the page defaults, a 60Ah flooded battery at 30% depth of discharge with no inverter in the path. The dash cam rows draw less than 8W, which is slower than the slowest discharge Trojan prints for a flooded battery, so those two are extrapolations. A lead-acid battery also loses charge sitting idle, so a long runtime at a tiny load is not a shelf-life figure.

The most common way people flatten a car battery is leaving the headlights on. At 120W, halogen headlights take a 60Ah battery to 30% depth in about 1 hour 25 minutes. By the time you come back, the starter may not turn.

How the calculator gets there: the energy a lead-acid battery gives up falls as you draw it faster, so instead of assuming the label amp-hours are available at any current it applies a discharge-rate correction fitted to the tables Trojan, Lifeline and Victron print for their own batteries. Those are deep-cycle products, which is worth saying plainly. The fit lands within about 10% of Trojan's printed flooded points and about 6% of Lifeline's AGM points, and checked against the constant-power table EnerSys prints for a 12V automotive AGM it sits within about 5% from the 20-hour rate down to the 1-hour rate. Faster than that it turns optimistic, which is why a heavy load gets a warning instead of a confident number.

Worked Examples

How Long Can You Run a Car Stereo Without the Engine?

Context

Your car battery is a 60Ah flooded unit. The stereo draws 50W. You hold the draw to 30% depth of discharge, the figure Discover prints for batteries built to run key-off loads.

Calculation

Current: 50W / 12V = 4.17A, which is 4.17 / 60Ah = a 0.069C discharge.

The fitted flooded discharge curve gives 12.9 hours to a full discharge at that rate; 30% of it is 3.87 hours.

Interpretation

About 3 hours 52 minutes of stereo, and 194Wh out of the battery. On a cold morning even 30% may not leave enough cranking current, because a lead-acid battery gives up less of everything as it gets colder.

Takeaway

Car batteries are designed for starting, not deep discharge. For extended accessory use, add a dedicated deep cycle battery wired separately from the starting battery.

Parasitic Draw Draining a Battery Over Two Weeks

Context

You park your car at the airport for 14 days. Factory parasitic draw (alarm, computer memory, clock) is about 25 milliamps (0.3W). Your battery is 60Ah.

Calculation

Energy used: 0.3W x 24 hrs x 14 days = 100.8 Wh

Ah used: 0.025A x 336 hours = 8.4 Ah

That is 14% of the 60Ah capacity, and more than four times the 3% Discover prints as the regular limit for a flooded starting battery, in one 14-day sitting.

Interpretation

A healthy battery handles 14 days easily. But an old battery at 70% health only has 42 Ah effective, and 8.4 Ah represents 20% — it might not start reliably in cold weather.

Takeaway

If your car struggles to start after sitting, the issue is likely battery health, not parasitic draw. To check whether your battery capacity is adequate, see our battery voltage percentage calculator.

Frequently Asked Questions

Glossary

Parasitic Draw

The current a vehicle's electronics keep drawing with the engine off. OPTIMA prints that a 25-milliamp draw is acceptable and that anything over 100 milliamps indicates an electrical issue, commonly a stuck relay, an aftermarket accessory or a failing module. At 12V that is 0.3W of healthy standby draw against 1.2W that needs chasing down.

Starting Battery vs Deep Cycle

Car batteries (SLI type) deliver high current for short bursts to start the engine. Discover prints the difference in one figure: regular flooded starting batteries are designed for discharges of less than 3% of capacity, while the high-cycle anti-idle batteries built for key-off loads are designed for up to 30%. Pull a starting battery deeper than it was designed for and the thin plates shed material, which is why this calculator flags every setting past 3%.

Reserve Capacity

The minutes a car battery can deliver 25 amps before voltage drops below 10.5V. This indicates how long accessories can run with the engine off. A higher RC means more headroom for situations like tailgating or emergency lighting.

Check the amps draw calculator to convert any accessory wattage to amps for fuse sizing.

Treat the figure above as a budget for one occasion. Discover puts a plain flooded starting battery under 3% depth in regular use, so a 30% draw is something you do when you have to and then recharge. If running power with the engine off is part of how you use the vehicle, the answer is a second battery on its own isolator: tally what it has to carry with the electrical load calculator before you buy one.

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Last updated:

Written and maintained by Dan Dadovic, Commercial Director at Ezoic Inc. & PhD Candidate in Information Sciences. He works professionally as Commercial Director at Ezoic Inc., leading revenue strategy across digital publishing.

Disclaimer: Calculator results are estimates based on theoretical formulas. Actual performance varies with temperature, battery age, load patterns, and equipment condition. For critical electrical work, consult a licensed electrician.

Methodology reviewed by Doc. dr. sc. Damir Topić, Assistant Professor, FERIT Osijek.